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10:30pm: Retire to bed, crawling underneath the mosquito nets onto a lavish king-size. Steerage, this is not. Cicadas sing us to sleep, assisted by the gentle roll of the tide.

11am: Find rendezvous point at last after many wrong turns, and many angry words shouted by our driver down cell phone to the gatlinburg and pigeon forge hints and tips. The guide seems to experience the more believable story: "Your driver, my God, what a crack dude! I told him so many times, left at the bridge!" In any case bags are unpacked is without a doubt the houseboat, decide in order to tip car owner.

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