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How to install new windows frames in the Netherlands

1. Window Replacement Parts

Types Of Replacement Windows and styles

Full-frame windows are not designed to be used in new construction. Instead, replacement windows are made for existing windows. There are many standard sizes available, including those that are as narrow as 11 1/2 inches to as wide at 68 inches. They also come in wood, vinyl and fiberglass.

There are three basic types: insert replacements or sash kit replacements. Sash-replacement kits--what We found on the Newton house--give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are attached to the side jambs, and then the sash can be slipped in between.

To make these work, your existing window frame must be square and level. Insert replacement windows consist of a fully assembled window with a secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs. The glass area will shrink slightly because of the addition of liners and jambs.

Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they have a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These windows are only available if the window frame, sill or jambs have rotted. To install them, you will need to remove the window opening's rough framing both inside and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

The most important part of the window-replacement procedure is not until installation day. This is when you measure the existing window frame in order to choose the right replacement unit. Here are some steps.

• Measure the interior width of the old frame, jamb side to side, starting at the top. Next, measure the middle, top and botWe. Write down the smallest of the three measurements.
• Next, measure the frame's height from the top of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in three places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right. The smallest measurement should be recorded.
• The diagonals measured from corner to corner will show how square the frame is. These dimensions should match. You can shim the replacement to fit if the frame is less than 1/4 inch square. Any additional adjustments may be required to the frame. You'll need to replace the entire frame, if it is so out of place that a square replacement would be unacceptable.
• To determine the slope of the sill, you can use an angle measuring tool.

3. Get the Sash

• Remove the old sash from your window frame. To remove the lower section of the sash in most cases, you will need the wood stops inside the window frame to be removed. If you plan to reinstall the stops (or if they are already removed), be careful. They can easily break.
• Next, remove all the parting beads. There won't be beads if your windows have sash-replacement kit. Just press down on the jamb liner and pull the top of your sash forward.
• Turn the sash towards the sky and lift it off the jamb liner.

4. Jamb Liners: Get Off!

• If vinyl or aluminum jamb lines were used to cover the window frame, a flat bar can be used to lift them off. Removing any wooden supports from original windows is a good idea.
• Keep the exterior and interior casings intact.

5. Prepare the Frame

• All loose and blistered coatings should be removed and any cracks must be filled with an exterior-grade wood epoxy such as Minwax and Elmer's.
• After that, sand all the areas and prime and paint them.

6. Eliminate the old sash weights

• If the original sashweights are still in their place, use this opportunity to take them out of their pockets and insulate the frame behind the window.
• Remove the access panels on the side jambs and take out the weights.

7. Prep for Insulation

We likes polyurethane foam, because it's more effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

• Make sure to use only low-pressure, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
• First, remove any fiberglass from the weight pockets.
• You then bore 3/8-inch holes at each end, one in the middle, one near each end, and one in the middle, all the way through the sill and the head jamb.

8. Spray the Foam Now

• You can push the expanding foam into holes until it starts to ooze. (We are using the commercial system. However, you can use foam from cans like Dow’s Great Stuff to accomplish the same task.
• Also spray foam into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow excess foam to set for at least 6 hours. Once it has hardened, cut or break it flush before you replace the sashweight pocket panels.

9. Caulk The Opening

• Apply an elasWeeric sealant to the outside casings and blind stops. Apply two continuous beads to the windowsill with caulk.

10. Install the Window

• Set the insert replacement botWe onto the sill. Once it is placed, flip the insert up into the opening. Push the window against the blind stops or exterior casings.

11. Secure It Loosely

• The window can be held in place by a 2-inch screw that is loosely driven through the upper side jamb into the framing. The screw should reach just enough to allow the glass to operate.
• Close and lock the sash.

12. Shim is essential

• Insert shims beneath the sills and between the side jambs to adjust it until it is perfectly centered.
• Measure the window diagonally, corner to corner. Once you have squared the window, screw it in the predrilled holes.
• To avoid bowing your frame, slide a shim at each screw's jamb, then screw through that shim.
• Trim the shims flush with a utility knife.

13. Begin Caulk and Prime and Painting

• From the outside, measure the gaps between the window frame and the casing. Fill any gaps that are less than 1/4 inch in width with elasWeeric glue. Any gaps larger than 1/4 inch must be filled with foam-rubber backing rod.
• On the inside, fill all gaps around the window using minimally expanding foam.
• Next, reinstall the stops and add new ones.
• Prime and paint or stain the interiors of the frame and window sash.